Saturday, March 12, 2011

I took a walk today.

This is not going to be a particularly happy post.

One of the residents of Luhans'k took me for a walk this morning.  One of the places we visited was a park near the library.  In this park are a number of memorials.  One the first monuments I encountered was a memorial to veterans who died in warfare.  I have been told that this monument is dedicated to casualties of the Afghanistan War.

Veterans Memorial
      
  

Another memorial in the park was a monument dedicated to the victims of the Holodomor (Голодомор) of 1932 and 1933.  I am sure very few Americans know anything about that terrible event.  The Holodomor was the attempted genocide of the entire population of Ukraine.  Stalin intentionally engineered a famine by confiscating all of the grain produced by Ukrainian famers and then sealed off the borders to prevent the importation of food.  He viewed the Ukrainian nation as a threat and created the famine to punish Ukrainians and eliminate them as a people.  Historians estimate that 3 to 10 million Ukrainians died during the Holodomor.  There is disagreement as to the actual death toll, and we will never know exactly how many Ukrainians starved to death.  What is true, however, is that multiple millions of Ukrainians perished, and the populations of entire towns succumbed to the famine.  People from other parts of the Soviet Union had to be relocated to Ukraine to repopulate the country.  Ironically, this deliberate famine took place in a country known as the "Breadbasket of Europe."  It was not until I received my Fulbright that I learned of this tragedy. 



Holodomor/Голодомор Memorial


The last monument my friend showed me was a memorial to the victims of Josef Stalin's repression.  This is another case in which I don't think Americans truly fathom just how ruthless Stalin was.  I think one of the main reasons for this is the American and British goverments' refusal to be honest about Stalin's true nature.  For reasons I cannot fathom, these two governments were highly protective of Stalin's image during and just after the war, and as a result, I have absolutely no respect for any historical figure who turned a blind eye to Stalin's atrocities (For example, Truman who told Bess, "I like Stalin" and George Bernard Shaw who was an unapologetic apologist of Stalin's repressive policies. I will never read a single word written by Shaw.)  It is estimated that Stalin ordered the murder of nearly 30 million of his own people during his Reign of Terror.  Of course, as with the Holodomor, we will never know just how many people he murdered.  I won't go into details here.  Read the history of his actions and policies if you dare, if you have the stomach and fortitude, if you are willing to risk nightmares during your sleep.

Memorial to the victims of Stalin

 
I hestitated posting these images and thoughts.  I want this to a positive account of my experiences, and I don't want anyone in Ukraine to think I have negative views of their country.  But these memorials are right here in Luhans'k for everyone to see and ponder, and they are a part of Ukraine's collective experience.  No, I do not have negative views of my very generous hosts.  I love the Ukrainian people, and my heart absolutely aches for all of the injustices, crimes and tragedies they have had to endure. Today, I was invited to a birthday party.  I was a complete stranger to everyone present except for one individual, yet I was welcomed as a friend and was offered without the slightest hesitation an abundant feast of delicious food and drink.  The Ukrainians and Russians I have met are beautiful and generous people, and I will never forget their kindness and generosity.

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