Пирогів (Pyrohiv)

Earlier this month when I was in Kyiv, I spent a day at Pyrohiv (Пирогів), which was originally a settlement south of Kyiv.  It is now the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life of Ukraine.  This is one of the largest outdoor museums in the world.  It is so large that is impossible to explore the entire village in one day.  Many of the original buildings have been preserved at this site and others have been brought in from throughout Ukraine. It is a very beautiful and peaceful outdoor museum, an excellent place to relax and learn about the history and culture of pre-revolutionary Ukraine. 

I took a good many pictures, so I have created a special page here.  I will be adding photos over a period time. 

Victory Day

May 9 or Victory Day marks Nazi Germany's surrender to the Soviet Union during World War II.  In Russia and the former Soviet Republics, it is one of the biggest holidays of the year.  My friend Victor suggested that I meet him and a friend of his downtown, and as the day was beautiful, I accepted.  I met Victor and Gregory for tea at Chelsea Cafe.

Gregory and Victor

Gregory, Victor and me emjoying afternoon tea

Gregory is an eighty year old veteran of World War II, or the Great Patriotic War, as it is known in Russia and the former republics of the Soviet Union.  He signed up for military service in the Soviet army at age 14, telling the recruiters that he was 16.  They accepted his answer, though I suspect they probably knew he was underage, as 14 is pretty young, but the Soviet military was desperate for manpower, or, in this case, boypower.  He was immediately sent to Stalingrad (Volgograd), which is east of Luhans'k.  The Soviets were in such dire need of troops, that they were sending anyone capable of holding a rifle.  Gregory participated in the now infamous Battle of Stalingrad and very soon after his arrival received a life-threatening head wound from an exploding shell.  He told me that he still has a shell fragment in his head and that for a very long time his brain protruded from a hole in his skull.  He was extremely lucky to survive.  He showed me his scar, not something I necessarily needed to see over tea, but he is justly proud of his contribution to the defense of his country.

The Battle of Stalingrad is considered by many historians to be the most brutal and bloodiest battles in the history of mankind.  To put it in perspective, the average lifespan of a new Soviet recruit was one day, so Gregory was one lucky boy, indeed.  Eventually, he healed and requested to return to the army, but was denied due to the extent of his injuries. 

Gregory asked me if Americans understand the Battle of Stalingrad and the sacrifice made by the city's defenders.  I told him probably not.  Most Americans actually know very little about the Soviet Union and its history.  The only way to truly appreciate Stalingrad was to be there, and the American military did not directly participate in the battle.  Incidentally, during the period of the Battle of Stalingrad, Luhans'k was completely occupied and controlled by the Germans, but was eventually liberated on February 14, 1943, 2 weeks after German general Friedrich Paulus surrendered to the Soviets in Stalingrad.

I enjoyed visiting with Gregory and learned a great deal during our conversations.  Of course, as is the custom here, he ordered shots of vodka for all of us, along with generous helpings of fresh vegetables, bread, and slices of cheese and ham.  Actually, if one is going to consume vodka, pairing it with food is essential.  Gregory offered a toast to the Americans for their help in defeating Hitler and to a long friendship between Russians and Americans.  I offered a toast to the kind and generous Russians and Ukrainians who have welcomed and befriended me and to our lifelong friendship.

Even after all he and his fellow citizens went through during World War II, he is not bitter, nor does he harbor anger or resentment at the Germans.  He told me that the German soldiers he met were decent and not bad people; they were just doing what Hitler was demanding of them.  In the end we are all the same, just ordinary people trying to make our ways in the world.  It's governments that are the real trouble makers.

Ukrainian National Flag and the red flag of victory at Luhans'k Philharmonic

Black and orange ribbon of St. George and the Soviet red star

Two of the symbols of Victory Day are the red flag and orange and black St. George ribbon.  Gregory wore his St. George Ribbon.  Of the two symbols, the red flag is the most controversial.  Some Ukrainians consider it an important and appropriate symbol to display, arguing that it only represents victory over Hitler, while others view it as a reminder and symbol of the Soviet past and do not think it has a place in the observance of Victory Day.  I heard one Ukrainian refer to the red flag as "the flag of Soviet occupation." Regardless of one's opinion, it seems that nearly everyone in Luhansk celebrates the defeat of the Nazis and expresses great and sincere appreciation to the veterans who served their country, often sacrificing their lives during World War II.

This photo illustrates Ukraine's current challenge:
In what direction does the country want to go?

Following our tea with Gregory, Victor took me on a walking tour of Luhansk.  Here are some of the places he took me.  It was an amazing afternoon.

Statue of Marshal Kliment Voroshilov: Stalin's right hand man and one
of his closest friends. Voroshilov was one of the few men who could
publicly disagree with Stalin and live to tell the tale. He was born in
Luhansk, and the city was once called Voroshilovgrad in his honor.
This is also a hangout for the local skaters.

This is a memorial to the early iron workers of Luhansk. 
They made cannons for the Russian navy.

Me at the iron worker statue

And my friend Victor

The famous (inside Ukraine and Russia) lexicographer and
linguist Volodymyr Dahl (1801-1872). He knew eight languages
and published the first dictionary of the Russian language. He was
born in Luhansk, and his father was a Danish physician. He was
a very close friend of the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin.

Dahl's childhood home

Dahl's house

Dahl's house. Note the original painting
of his friend Alexander Pushkin.

Dahl's writing desk.

Memorial to officers who died
in the Great Patriotic War

A building near May Day Park. This structure is
significant, because Nikita Khrushchev delivered one
of his famous and fiery speeches from the balcony.