Friday, January 7, 2011

Merry Christmas!

It is Christmas in Luhans'k, today, and it's snowing...


Christmas tree in Theatre Square

Actually, I am not sure just how widely Christmas is celebrated in Ukraine.  Here in Luhans’k, it does not feel like Christmas.  It feels like an average day:  markets and businesses are open; walks are busy with pedestrians; McDonald’s is absolutely packed as always with rock music blaring in the background, and no one here seems to be celebrating the holiday.

There are people here who will bend over backwards for you.  Dr. Krsek sent a recent university graduate to my apartment today to help me solve my internet problems.  My techie is a very kind and patient young man who ended up taking me downtown twice to try to solve the problem with my wireless modem.  He speaks fairly good English.  When he got frustrated expressing a thought or idea, I reminded him that his English is much better than my Russian.   I could not have solved this problem without his help, and communication was never a problem. 

Anyway, he cannot find a job in his field.  While he searches for something related to his major (economics), he is working for the university in the area computer technologies for the meager salary of just 800 hryvnias a month (about $100.00).  Obviously this is not enough to live on.  To put it in perspective, my rent here is 3,000 hryvnias a month, which provides me with a very small 3 room apartment with an older bathroom (no shower), a small washer (no dryer) and a two burner stove in the kitchen (no oven—I’m going to miss making pizza).  He does not make enough to afford his own apartment of any kind, so he lives with his parents.  He added that his situation is not unique.  Many other Ukrainians either do not have jobs or get paid very little.  I told him that the situation in the U.S. similar with a high unemployment rate and many people struggling to make ends meet, but in retrospect, I think things are much more challenging for Ukrainians.

He is frustrated with his government, particularly since he is paid a government salary for his work and wishes politicians would work harder to improve conditions for workers and citizens.

It seems that governments in general have limited interest in improving conditions for the average citizen.  This is not a problem limited to countries such as Ukraine.  Governments are more interested in maintaining the status quo, even if it contributes to an ever widening gulf between the rich and poor.

Anyway, at one point, he asked me for my initial impression of Luhans’k.  It was a bit awkward for a moment, as I had been taken aback by the bleakness of the city when I first arrived and didn't want to say anything negative.  But I told him honestly that people here have been welcoming and helpful. 

My new friend continued that Luhans’k is a very poor city inhabited by poor people, many of whom are out of work.  He noted a lack of color and greenery.  Basically, the sense I got was that he views Luhans’k as a rather grim and dreary city and added that he likes the snow, because it covers up the “black ground" and cheers things up.

As I said above, I am discovering that most Ukrainians want to help and are indeed very patient and understanding.  I just need to make every effort to speak their language first and use as little English as possible so as to show respect toward them and their culture.

Wednesday, I was interviewed for a short article in the local paper.  The reporter wanted to know a bit about me and what I would be doing in Luhans'k.

I bought some very good tangerines at the market yesterday (and cheaply)…very sweet and juicy.

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